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Wood frame toe nailing: how to toe-nail joists, studs, & beams in wood framed structures.

This article describes the proper method for strong 'double-shear' angled or toe nailing of joists or studs that butt into beams or top or shoe plates in wood framed buildings.

Properly done, toe-nailing makes very strong wood framing connections. But mistakes like choosing the wrong nail size, wrong nail placement, or wrong number of nails can mean weak joints and a weak structure.

Wood framing connections & connectors: this article series explains the proper selection and installation of structural connectors, brackets & tie plates used to connect deck or porch framing and support members.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

Guide for Toe Nailing Wood Framing Connections

Definition of toe-nailing: framing nails driven on an angle from opposing sides and through the nailed-through wood framing member into the nailed-to framing member so that the 'crossed' opposed toe-nails form both a shear-resistant and a withdrawal-resistant connection between the framing members.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Toe-nailing or slant-driven nails are commonly used where it is not possible to drive through the side plate or top plate into the framing member, and has been historically widely used for connecting studs to the top or bottom plate, beam to plate, and rafter to plate or ridge board connections.

We will illustrate several of these toenail or slant-nail connections in this article.

Toe-nailing is used both stand-alone, without steel framing connectors and also toe-nailing is specified for the installation of some (not all) framing connectors.

In carpentry school we were taught that provided you use the correct type and size fastener (common nails, construction screws) and the correct number of them (there are tables and standards) toe-nailed from both sides of the abutment of a stringer face to the floor joist (or rafter to ridge and rafter to top plate, or stud to top and bottom plate) the connection is completely adequate, and is as strong as that made using proper joist hanger nails and joist hangers.

You will see that there are many opportunities to make a bad connection using either approach, in particular, using improperly-sized, placed, or number of fasteners. There is no evidence in my experience that people make fewer mistakes using a joist hanger than using direct nailing. They just make different mistakes.

Definition of shear loading & lateral loading of wood framing connections:

Shear loads or lateral load are across the framing nails while withdrawal loads are those that tend to pull the framing nails out of the nailed-to member.

Toe-Nails Instead of Joist Hangers are OK for Framing Lumber Butt-Joint Connections, but Don't Over-Nail and Don't Under-Nail

It is not necessary to use steel joist hangers if the joist is properly toe-nailed from either side into the ledger board, provided that the proper size and number of nails are used.

See FRAMING CONNECTORS & JOIST HANGERS for details about those connectors.

Our illustration (above left, adapted from a Double-Shear stamping on a steel joist hanger) explains why toe-nailed lumber connections can be very strong.

We drew in spray-brown color, a representation of wood framing members showing the abutting of 2x lumber (vertical in the illustration) with a header or beam (horizontal in the illustration).

The crossed nails, when applied close together (as guided by the framing connector or by the hand of a competent framing carpenter), form a very strong wood-to-wood connection.

Use of toe-nailing, or angled opposed framing nails (Double-Shear in Simpson Strong-Tie's patented[10] joist hanger such as the item adapted above), can permit the use of fewer total nails in a wood frame construction.

Our photo at left shows an unsuccessful use of toenailing in a failed attempt to connect intersecting glulam beams. The nails (those brown spots) pulled, broke, bent, and allowed the connection to fail.

The steel Lally columns are also not properly located an installed.

These beams are not properly connected and their structure is in danger of collapse. That some movement has already occurred is evident in the gap above my tape measure.

The strength of a toe-nailed wood framing connection will be affected by:

• How close to opposite one another the two nails are placed
• Using nails of sufficient length to adequately penetrate both wood members
• Nailing the toe-nails at the proper angle (45 degrees).
• Placing nails high enough from the edges of the abutting member (vertical in our sketch) as to have adequate purchase and to avoid simply splitting out a little chip of the edge of the 2x.
• Placing nails low enough in that same member to be sure that the length of the nail penetrates both the abutting member and the nailed-to facing member.
• Using the correct number of nails specified for the lumber sizes involved.
• The species and grade of the lumber being used and of course the condition of the lumber
• The type of loading: shear loading or lateral loading versus withdrawal loading that will be applied to the connection

How Many Nails to Use When Toe-Nailing

Because the 'toe-nails' cross one another in the header or ledger board when used to secure a deck joist, this connection can actually be stronger than straight-in or end-nailing the deck joists from the other side of the ledger or girder.

But using too many nails (below left) or too few nails (below right) is a mistake that results in a weak connection and potentially an unsafe structure.

Using Too Many Nails when Nailing Wood Framing

Using too many nails in a framing lumber connection when toe-nailing or in any position for that matter will also cause a weak framing connection that can lead to structural collapse.

That's because an excessive number of nails actually fractures the lumber. If you click-on and enlarge our photo at above left you'll see that the contractor fractured the vertical stud near its top. Our photo (left) shows about 30 nails shot by the builder during framing of this home.

The framer was trying to drive a recalcitrant stud into position. Clamps might have worked better.

This stud was so split as to lose its structural integrity, and replacement of this wall stud was needed.

As we show below, adding more nails, even with a pneumatic nail gun, does not do a great job of pulling together framing members that are separated.

Too few nails when toenailing framing

Using too few toe-nails in a framing lumber connection is going to make a weak structure that could collapse.

For code compliant nailing see the nail schedules in the applicable building code for your area. For example see the UBC Table 25-Q Nailing Schedule. A few examples are cited below.

• Studs: 2x4: 4 nails - In the bottom of a 2x4 stud we use two nails per side, opposite one another, crossing in the nailed-to member.
• Studs, 2x6: 6 nails - In the bottom of a 2x6 stud we'd use 3 (and in some cases 4) nails per side.
• Joist to ledger board: varies by joist depth.
  In a 2x6 joist I'd use 8 nails, 4 per side.

• Rafter toenail connections:
  At the birds' mouth cut of a rafter connecting to the top plate we use three nails per side, two down through the top of the birds' mouth into the top plate and one (on either side) of the rafter's vertical portion of the bird's mouth cut into the face of the top plate.
  Really? Well yeah, in traditional wood framing we toe-nail the rafter to the top plate at the birds mouth cutout. However depending on the location of the structure and framing practices, the builder may use a framing anchor specifically designed for joining a rafter to the top plate of the wall.
  Our photo above shows a bird's mouth notch in a porch rafter sitting atop the outer girder - equivalent in location and rafter measurements to setting a rafter atop the wall top plate of a building wall.
  In a properly-cut bird's mouth, the length of the horizontal or level line (below my two red arrows in the photo above) should be about equal in length to the width of the top plate.
  The actual design of the bird's mouth cut will vary in both length and depth according to the width of the top plate, the angle of the roof, the design of the roof overhang and also the use of framing connectors.
  Some framing anchors eliminate the birds mouth notch; a framing anchor provides a steel nailing plate connector that provides a stronger connection with better hurricane or storm wind resistance. Similar special connectors are provided for connection of the rafter to the ridge.

Above: a Simpson Strongtie® VPA variable pitch rafter-to-wall connector designed for solid sawn lumber. Notice that using the VPA rafter connector the bird's mouth cut or notch is eliminated. [Click to enlarge any image]

Below: a Simpson Strongtie® H1.81Z Hurricane Tie designed for LVL roof rafters to give a stronger connection to the top plate

At the ridge the rafter is toe-nailed to the ridge board OR a steel framing connector can be used. Below my photo shows separation between the rafter face and the ridge board.

Below: questionable rafter-to-wall connections

Above: two visible, possibly four maximum, toe-nails through rafter ends along with some other rather odd wood framing in a U.S. home inspected by the author.

In my OPINION (not an engineering opinion) and from what we can see, these rafters are not adequately connected to the rest of the structure.

• Girder or beam to post, plate or other connections: must be specified by the design

Examples of Nailing Schedule for Toe-Nailed or Slant-Nailed Wood Framing Connections
Wood Frame Connection Type	Number of Nails Required
Blocking or Bridging, between joists / rafters	3-8d into top plate 2-8d into joists at each end of the block or bridging
Ceiling joist to top plate of wall	3-8d toenails - 12d
Cross bridging between joists	2-8d nails
Header to studs	4-8d - 12d toenails two on opposing sides
Rafter to surface of top plate	3-8d - 10d - 12d toe-nails (see notes in text above), also 10d box nails may be used in some jurisdictions.
Floor joists or ceiling joist to top surface of sill plate or girder top	3-8d common toenails, or 10d, or 12d
Floor joists or deck joists to ledger board face	4-6 8d or 10d toenails per side, 2x6 joist; number per side increases for deeper joists;
Joist & rafter blocking	3-8d, face nail from 2 nails from one side
Rim joist to surface of top plate or sill plate	8d, 6' o.c.
Wall stud (2x4) to top plate	2 - 16d end-nails (through the plate from below, into the stud end)
Wall stud (2x4) to sole plate or 'shoe'	4 - 8-d toe-nails or 2 - 16d end-nails (through the plate from below, into the stud end)

Notes to & Complete Nailing Schedule Sources for table above

• NAIL FASTENING SCHEDULE - 2016 CALIFORNIA BUILDING CODE Table 2304.10.1 [PDF] Building & Safety Division, Plans & Permits Div., City of Fremont California, 39550 Liberty St., Fremont CA 94538, Website: www.fremont.gov, original source: https://www.fremont.gov/DocumentCenter/View/7140/FASTENING-SCHEDULE?bidId=
• NAILING SCHEDULE - 1994 Uniform Building Code Table 23-I-Q [PDF] - this PDF provides the entire wood framing nailing table that serves as a general guideline on number of toe-nails used and nail size used for various residential wood framing connections.
• RESIDENTIAL NAILING SCHEDULE TABLE R602.3(1) FASTENER SCHEDULE for STRUCTURAL MEMBERS [PDF] Dublin CA Building & Safety Division, 100 CIvic center Plaza, DublinCA 95468 USA, Tel: 925-833-6620 website: dublin.ca.gov
• IRC Code: IRC–12/13 Table R602.3(1) Fastening Schedule for Structural Members

Other code & data source citations for nailing schedules are given below

Watch out: It is essential that nails be driven from both sides of the member for a proper toe-nailed connection.

How to keep the framing member in position when toe-nailing

Framing tip: if you've marked the stud, rafter, or joist location on the nailed-to plate or ridge board you may find that as you toe-nail the first nail into the side the nailed-through member begins to slide past the placement line.

If the movement of the nailed-through member off of the layout line is 1/8' or less, go ahead and finish the first nail, but then start the second nail on the opposite side of the nailed-through member. As you finish that nail you will drive the nailed-through member back to its exact position on the layout line.

If the movement off of the layout line is more than 1/8', stop nailing the first toe-nail and start the second opposite-side toenail to move the member back into position.

Rather than tippy-tap back and forth on the two sides, you should be able to fully drive the second nail even if it moves the member back over the layout line up to 1/8' in the opposite direction. When you finish nailing the first toenail you'll drive the member back into perfect position.

Then finish the remaining toenails, taking turns to nail from opposing sides.

Where to Place the Nails When Toe-Nailing

at left is an example of angle or slant nailing that is not 'toe nailing' because the nails for each connection are being driven into only one side of the mated wood members. That's ok for this application.

Incidentally, you may notice that the joist bridging shown at left was nailed at its upper end before the subfloor was set in place. But no one remembered to finish the job. The nails in the bridging ends show proper placement and angle for nailing into the joist bottom edges.

First let's understand the objective: we want the toe-nailed nails to accomplish the following:

• Avoid splitting the nailed-through member: this means don't start the toenail to close to the very end of the nailed-through member. Usually 3/4' to 1 1/4' before the end of the nailed through member will work.
• Obtain sufficient depth or bite into the nailed-to framing member. This means we want 3/4' or more of nail fully into the body of the nailed-to member. Choose a nail of the right size (see below) and right location to achieve this.

If you're not sure about the angle (about 50° to 60° up from horizontal) or starting location of your nail from the end of the member, hold your toenail across an example of the to-be-connected lumber where the end of the nailed-to member is visible. You'll be able to see the depth to which it's going to penetrate.

Toenail or Slant-nailing Spacing Specifications
Location	Minimum Clearance Distance
Minimum end-distance to start the toenail:	7/8'
Minimum edge distance to start the toenail	7/8'
Minimum center-to-center distance for spacing toenails	1 3/4'

Notes to the table above

Some model building codes such as the UBC specify the spacing for slant nailed or toenailed connections, with differing requirements depending on whether the objective is to reduce shear loading or lateral loading versus withdrawal loading.

Building code specifications for nailing schedules also include assumptions about the wood species and grade, typically Douglas-fir/larch or Southern Pine lumber.

What size nails should be used for toe-nailing

Our photo (left) shows a built-up girder sitting atop a wood post with no visible connection.

But in my OPINION the typical 'toenailing' of this girder to the post top that some builders may use would still be an inadequate connection.

This connection, discussed in detail at FRAMING CONNECTORS & JOIST HANGERS, is an unsafe structure that risks collapse.

Reader question: (July 22, 2012) Ron said: 3' or 3 1/4' for toe nailing 2x lumber?

Reply: Ron,

In the article above you can see an illustration of toe-nailing showing nails crossing into the nailed-to member for strength.

• The required nail size for toenailing or slant-nailing depends on the application, location, type of connection, and size of lumber involved.
• The nail size also affects the number of nails required.
• For example in connecting a wall stud to the sole plate we use 2 end-driven 16d nails OR 4 8d toenails.
• As another example, where making structural connections of larger lumber sizes using 16d (3 1/2') common nails, the Uniform Building Code (UBC) requires 1 3/4' of penetration into the nailed-to member.
• For nailing typical 2x studs to a bottom plate or top plate the UBC requires 4 8d common nails, two per side of the stud.
• A 3-inch nail or 10d nail would be big enough for most common framing situations. In fact some framing texts (Wagner, Willis H, 'Modern Carpentry' (1976)) describe using four 8d toenails, most likely again out of a concern to avoid splitting problems.

Driven a properly-sized nail on a proper angle through the 1 1/2' of thickness of 2x lumber you've got 1- 3/4' bite into the lumber below;

Toe nailing can be quite strong if properly installed - with nails in pairs set on opposing sides and at opposing angles so that they 'cross' inside the nailed-to wood. But if 'toe nailing' is done only from one side the framing connection is not strong and in my opinion not proper.

It's also important to locate the toenail correctly - if it's too close to the bottom of the vertical stud or end of the horizontal framing joist it will split the wood and won't have enough bite in the nailed-through member.

If on the other hand the toenail is too high in the nailed-through member it won't have enough bite in the nailed-to member. I toenail about an inch from the end of the nailed-through member and on an angle that I can visualize as sending a good portion of the nail into the body of the nailed-into member.

How to avoid splitting when toenailing or slant-nailing wood framing

Start by keeping the toenails a sufficient distance from the end of the nailed-through member but not so high that you won't have adequate penetration into the nailed-to member.

In our photo at left I point out the location of two of the four required toenails for nailing the rafter to the top plate at the birds' mouth cut.

I don't see any splitting but I'm worried that the nails may be a bit high. Depending on the size of nail used there may not be adequate penetration into the top plate.

Photo courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto engineering & home inspection firm and home inspection education company.

Framing tip: experienced carpenters learn to place the long axis of the diamond-shaped cut tip of a common framing nail across the wood grain of the nailed-into member.

This position minimizes splitting. As you take the nail out of your nail apron with your left hand, just place the tip of your third finger on the nail tip and use your thumb and forefinger to roll the nail so that you feel its long axis against the flat of your third finger. With the nail in that position, as you start the fastener, place the long axis of the nail point across the wood grain.

A 3 1/2 inch common nail or 16d might be over-sized for toe-nailing and is likely to split the 2x, especially if nailed near the edges of the lumber.

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You originally asked this question in an article on framing connectors. Framing connectors, an alternative to toenailing, are nailed straight into the respective framing members using common, galvanized but short framing connector nails, not full length common nails.

Separately, in our article on framing square use,

at FRAMING SQUARE for BIRDS MOUTH CUT

we explain how the bird's mouth cut is located in a rafter by following the rafter's line length from ridge to outer face of wall top plate.

Toe-nailing & Slant-Nailing References

• Breyer,Donald E., Kenneth Fridley, Kelly Cobeen, David Pollock, Design of Wood Structures - ASD, McGraw Hill, 2003, ISBN-10: 0071379320, ISBN-13: 978-0071379328
• Harris, Samuel Y. P.E., AIA, Esq., Building Pathology, Deterioration, Diagnostics, and Intervention, ISBN 0-471-33172-4, John Wiley & Sons, 2001 [General building science-DF] ISBN-10: 0471331724 ISBN-13: 978-0471331728
• Wagner, Willis H, Modern Carpentry, Building Construction Details in easy-to-understand form, [at Amazon] The Goodheart-Wilcox Co., Inc., 1976, ISBN 0-87006-208-5
• Watt, David , Building Pathology: Principles and Practice, Wiley-Blackwell, 2d edition (March 7, 2008) ISBN-10: 1405161035 ISBN-13: 978-1405161039
• 1994 Uniform Building Code Table 23-I-Q, Table 23-II-8-1, Table 25Q
• 'Residential Addition Submittal Checklist', City of Ripon, Public Works Department, excerpts from model building codes including the UBC nailing schedule, retrieved 5/20.14, original source http://www.cityofripon.org/Building/PDF/09-Residental-Addition.pdf
• Wisconsin Administrative Code, Chapter SPS 321, Construction Standards, retrieved 5/20/14, original source: http://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/code/admin_code/sps/safety _and_buildings_and_environment/320_325/321.pdf

Reader Comments & Q&A

On 2020-10-14 - by (mod) -

improper toe-nailing: too many nails, split lumber

Matt: those joist connections don't look too nice to me either.
1. The nails are rather close to the joist end. At some of those locations the joist end is splitting, giving a weak and potentially unsafe structural connection.
2. The nails are mis-driven in at least one case (from the joist top) - missing the ledger.
3. The ledger is split at the end from having driven what looks like 14 nails on that side of the outermost joist - and that's before even looking at the other side of the same joist where more nails may be present.
In a 2x6 joist I'd use a total of 8 8d or 10d nails, 4 per side, typically 8d in size or in some cases 10d - these are the most-commonly-used nail sizes when toe-nailing 2x framing lumber as unless you're using box nails, larger nails tend to split the lumber, especially when, as in your photo, they're nailed too close to the end of the joist.
4. The next ledger (near the photo's upper right corner) in is roughly cut, not flush with the ledger board, nailed too close to the joist end and perhaps too sports too many nails. Too many nails actually weaken the connection by splitting the wood especially at the joist end.
5. In the ledger board connection to the structure, there is an exposed nut and washer that look loose but I can't see enough to be sure how this framing member is secured to the building;

you sure want that ledger board to be properly and securely connected to the building (at what looks like a concrete block or parged foundation wall)
6. I see no flashing between ledger and building
Watch out: inadequately or poorly fastened framing risks structural collapse and injury
Luckily all is not lost. The careful addition of properly-sized steel joist hangers MIGHT be able to salvage this situation; the down-side is having to drive again more nails into the joist but the hangers can be nailed to the ledger board and those fasteners will be further away from the point at which the joist butts into the ledger board.
When I've run into this situation and the lumber was badly split the contractor agreed to replace it and re-frame the area.
When I've had to use steel joist hangers or mending plates in these situations I take great care to use the proper fastener; joist hanger nails or screws are manufacturered inthe proper size, both diameter and length, for use with these structural fasteners.

Watch out: In my OPINION, I prefer using joist hanger screws for their ease of installation in spots where sometimes hammering space is limited, and because the screws have not just acceptable shear resistance but improved withdrawal resistance over nails.
An example of that product is shown above, Simpson Strong-Tie Structural Screws SD9112R100 No.9 by 1-1/2-Inch Structural-Connector Screw - specifically designed for this application.
The company says: Simpson Strong Tie SD Structural-Connector Screws are designed to be used with Simpson Connectors for both interior and exterior applications.
Frankly I can't see much from one photo but I agree that some additional measures are appropriate.

On 2020-10-14 by Matt

I've had a contractor building a deck. They put the initial joist(2x8 treated) too far apart and ended up using a reciprocating saw to cut the nails where they went to the ledger.
When they nailed them back in, it appears they did not use galvanized fasteners. The contractor fired the crew, and the new crew is now using joist hangers with the same joist to attach it to the ledger.
I'm worried that the joists are nailed out now and new joists should be installed, but the contractor is avoiding it due to the large cost.

On 2020-10-13 by (mod)

Chuck:
If the split your photos show is in a rim joist that sits atop a foundation wall or sill then it's not likely to presage a sag or collapse;

and I'm unclear how you could run lag bolts up through the bottom of the joist as it's bottom is atop a foundation or sill.
You could, however, add steel mending plates to reinforce the area of the split.
Shown here is a Simpson TP37 flat metal mending plate from Simpson Strong Tie

On 2020-10-13 by Chuck

I have a daylight rambler with post & beam down the length of the house in the basement.

For most of the length, joists sit on top of the beam, but for about 11 feet at one end the joists are toenailed into the beam and sit on a 2x4 sill nailed along the bottom of the beam, which provides better headroom for that area.
I decided to tie every other opposing joist together through the beam in order to better resist them coming apart in an earthquake.

However, when I started looking at the 'hidden' (by pipes & ductwork) side of the beam, I found a split running for around 8 feet about 3-4' above the sill.

I'm wondering if that's a problem and, if so, whether running lag bolts up through the beam to reinforce it would help. First photo shows the construction. Second photo shows the crack on the opposite side of the beam.
This is the second photo meant to go with the previous post.

On 2020-06-14 by (mod)

Jan
As long as the nails are the right size for the framing members and the right number are used, toe-nailing is perfectly acceptable. It does require a bit more expert workmanship to get the connections neat, proper, and strong, but, then, a careless worker can foul up joist hangers just as easily.

On 2020-06-12 by Jan

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Building a floating deck. Contractor wants to use toe nailing instead of joist hangers. What are your thought

On 2018-11-30 by (mod)

John
In the article above we give the recommended number of toe-nails per side for various dimensions of 2x lumber. That's what I recommend as your guide.
There is no single exactly right answer to your question because wood is a natural material from a living plant that is not absolutely consistent and identical by species nor even from one board or 2x to the next of the same species, even the same tree.
In a given 2x for example, moisture content, wood species, the presence of a knot, the proximity to heartwood, the presence of existing damage or splits, variations in grain density and direction, as well as the nail diameter and even nail cross section shape and the angle to which the nail is driven and the closeness of the nail entry point to the end of the member ALL affect the probability that the member will split around the nail, weakening or ruining the connection.
Thanks for asking a great question. We will keep this with the article and add other factors in the probability that a piece of wood is going to split or otherwise have a poor nailed connection.

On 2018-11-29 by John Sumnicht

How much of a gap can there be between toe-nailed members before the toe-nails start losing effectiveness??

On 2014-12-19 by (mod)

JoAnn the nailing schedule, size, number are given for toe nailing in the article above.
Your local building department and your codes could require other connectors, depending on where you live, such as for seismic or high wind conditions.

On 2014-12-19 by JoAnn

What I have read here sounds to cover my concern somewhat on toe nailing beam to joist. I will ask though, for my personal use: This involves constructing a patio cover. In connecting a double 2x6 beam to a 2x6 joist, and if toe nailing, what recommendation in order to pass city code, can be given me on proper nailing to use, nail size, how many and how placed. The rafters/joist will be over the double 2x6. Thank you.

On 2014-12-06 by Anonymous

Can 4x4 Posts be toenailed with 4 in screws on decking to hold roof

...

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• Steve Bliss's Building Advisor at buildingadvisor.com helps homeowners & contractors plan & complete successful building & remodeling projects: buying land, site work, building design, cost estimating, materials & components, & project management through complete construction. Email: info@buildingadvisor.com
  Steven Bliss served as editorial director and co-publisher of The Journal of Light Construction for 16 years and previously as building technology editor for Progressive Builder and Solar Age magazines. He worked in the building trades as a carpenter and design/build contractor for more than ten years and holds a masters degree from the Harvard Graduate School of Education.Excerpts from his recent book, Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, Wiley (November 18, 2005) ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, appear throughout this website, with permission and courtesy of Wiley & Sons. Best Practices Guide is available from the publisher, J. Wiley & Sons, and also at Amazon.com
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• Building Pathology, Deterioration, Diagnostics, and Intervention, Samuel Y. Harris, P.E., AIA, Esq., ISBN 0-471-33172-4, John Wiley & Sons, 2001 [General building science-DF] ISBN-10: 0471331724ISBN-13: 978-0471331728
• Building Pathology: Principles and Practice, David Watt, Wiley-Blackwell; 2 edition (March 7, 2008) ISBN-10: 1405161035 ISBN-13: 978-1405161039
• Decks and Porches, the JLC Guide to, Best Practices for Outdoor Spaces, Steve Bliss (Editor), The Journal of Light Construction, Williston VT, 2010 ISBN 10: 1-928580-42-4, ISBN 13: 978-1-928580-42-3, available from Amazon.com
• Design of Wood Structures - ASD, Donald E. Breyer, Kenneth Fridley, Kelly Cobeen, David Pollock, McGraw Hill, 2003, ISBN-10: 0071379320, ISBN-13: 978-0071379328
  This book is an update of a long-established text dating from at least 1988 (DJF); Quoting:
  This book is gives a good grasp of seismic design for wood structures. Many of the examples especially near the end are good practice for the California PE Special Seismic Exam design questions. It gives a good grasp of how seismic forces move through a building and how to calculate those forces at various locations.THE CLASSIC TEXT ON WOOD DESIGN UPDATED TO INCLUDE THE LATEST CODES AND DATA. Reflects the most recent provisions of the 2003 International Building Code and 2001 National Design Specification for Wood Construction. Continuing the sterling standard set by earlier editions, this indispensable reference clearly explains the best wood design techniques for the safe handling of gravity and lateral loads. Carefully revised and updated to include the new 2003 International Building Code, ASCE 7-02 Minimum Design Loads for Buildings and Other Structures, the 2001 National Design Specification for Wood Construction, and the most recent Allowable Stress Design.
• Manual for the Inspection of Residential Wood Decks and Balconies, by Cheryl Anderson, Frank Woeste (Forest Products Society), & Joseph Loferski, October 2003, ISBN-13: 978-1892529343,
• Wagner, Willis H, Modern Carpentry, Building Construction Details in easy-to-understand form, [at Amazon] The Goodheart-Wilcox Co., Inc., 1976, ISBN 0-87006-208-5
• [1] Eric Galow, Galow Homes, Lagrangeville, NY. Mr. Galow can be reached by email: ericgalow@gmail.com or by telephone: 914-474-6613. Mr. Galow specializes in residential construction including both new homes and repairs, renovations, and additions.
• [2] Mark Morsching, Everflashing, Tel: 800-550-1667, Email: everflashing@gmail.com. The Everflashing product comes in G-185 and Stainless Steel and is intended for use with treated lumber with copper in it. Everflashing produces a variety of specialty flashing products including flashings for use with decks at deck ledgers and deck perimeters.
• [3] Cleveland Steel Structural Fasteners, 26001 Richmond Rd., Bedford Heights, OH 44146,| Phone: 216.464.9400, Fax: 216.464.9404, E-mail: info@clevelandsteel.com, Website: http://clevelandsteel.thomasnet.com/category/construction-hardware-division?
• [4] Daytona Bolt & Nut, 815 N. Beach Street, P.O. Box 1391, Daytona, FL 32114, P: 386-255-0248, F: 386-257-5985, E-mail:Daytona@DaytonaBolt.com
• [5] Schuler Mfg. & Equip. Co. Inc., 63724 Richland Road, Griswold, Iowa 51535, Tel: (712) 774-2228 Website: http://www.schulermfg.net/
• [6] Simpson Strong Tie®, Tel:1-800-999-5099, Website: http://www.strongtie.com/
• [7] 'Tamlyn Structural Lumber Connectors, Masonry / Concrete Products, Pest Control, [catalog & reference guide]', Tamlyn, 13623 Pike Road, Stafford, TX 77477, USA Toll Free 800-334-1676, Phone: 281-499-9604, Fax: 281-499-8948, (photo, above left), Website: http://tamlyn.com/ [copy on file as /structure/Framing/Connectors Framing/Tamlyn_Structural_Connector_Cat.pdf]
• [8] Incom Distributor Supply, PO Box 868, Fort Wayne IN 46801, Tel: 260-748, 5469, Website: http://shop.incomsupply.com/shop/, '... a growing nationwide network of over 500 Commercial Industrial Distributors' Incom Inc, 73-5600 Kauhola St Ste C, Kailua Kona, HI 96740, Tel: (808) 329-1311
• [9] USP Structural Connectors®, Tel: 1-800-328-5934, Email: uspcustomerservice@mii.com, Website: http://www.uspconnectors.com/
• [10] Double Shear Joist hangers include a cut-out/stamping that provides distributed, and properly-angled 45-degree nailing positions (load points) in the joist hanger. The angles assure proper toe-nailing of the hanger nails. Double shear nailing hangers are a patented [since 1984] feature of Simpson Strong-Tie ZMAX galvanized joist hangers. Other companies such as Silva Timber Products (in the U.K.) produce similar double-shear joist and truss hanger products.
• [11] Silva Timber Products, Unit 4, Albright Road Widnes, Cheshire, WA8 8FY, Tel: 0151 495 3111, Fax: 0151 495 2255, Website: http://www.silvatimber.co.uk/, Email: enquiries@silvatimber.co.uk

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

• Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.
• ...

• Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: info@carsondunlop.com. The firm provides professional HOME INSPECTION SERVICES and also extensive HOME INSPECTION EDUCATION and home inspection-related PUBLICATIONS. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
  Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.
  The ILLUSTRATED HOME illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.
  Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space.
  TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates
  Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Technical Reference Guide purchased as a single order. Just enter INSPECTATRG in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space.
  
• The HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.
  Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
  Or choose the The HOME REFERENCE eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones.
  Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space.
  
• Building inspection education & report writing systems from Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd
  COMMERCIAL BUILDING INSPECTION COURSES - protocol ASTM Standard E 2018-08 for Property Condition Assessments
  HOME INSPECTION EDUCATION COURESES (Canada)
  HOME INSPECTION EDUCATION COURSES (USA) including home study & live classes at eleven colleges & universities.
  HOME INSPECTION EDUCATION: HOME STUDY COURSES - ASHI@Home Training 10-course program.
  Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
  
• The Horizon Software System manages business operations,scheduling, & inspection report writing using Carson Dunlop's knowledge base & color images. The Horizon system runs on always-available cloud-based software for office computers, laptops, tablets, iPad, Android, & other smartphones

Publisher InspectApedia.com - Daniel Friedman

Editor's take: In fairness, T-Mobile probably shouldn’t take too much flak for the decision. Many of these devices are now more than half a decade old or more and have long since stopped receiving regular security updates. If nothing else, perhaps this will prompt some to look for a newer device that is still being actively updated.

T-Mobile customers utilizing older devices could be at risk of losing network connectivity in late January.

An internal T-Mobile document recently obtained by Android Police reveals that 19 devices will be unable to connect to the company’s network starting January 29. Impacted devices include:

• Samsung Galaxy Note 4 (AT&T model)
• Samsung Galaxy Note 4 (Verizon model)
• Samsung Galaxy Note Edge
• HTC Desire 10 Lifestyle
• HTC Desire 650
• Google Nexus 9
• Huawei Mate 8
• Huawei P9
• Mikrotikls SIA_R11e-LTE6
• Netgear Arlo Security Camera System
• OnePlus 1
• Quanta Dragon IR7
• Samsung Galaxy S5 Duos
• Sony Xperia Z3 Compact
• Sony Xperia Z3
• Sony Xperia Z3 Orion
• Sony D6616 Xperia Z3 Orion
• Soyea M02
• ZTE ZMax

Worth highlighting is the fact that the T-Mobile version of the Samsung Galaxy Note 4 will not be affected.

The fine print additionally notes that impacted customers started being notified by mail on December 18. An SMS will also go out on December 28, it states.

Android Police originally suspected the changes were linked to VoLTE support changes, but T-Mobile reached out to the publication and said that wasn’t the case.

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